Dan Coles - Behind the Apron

You may know Dan from his day's at Larwood and Voce where he famously won the

title for Best British Roast Dinner in 2015, he also had a stint at Iberico World Tapas, World Service (sadly no longer trading) as well as Michelin starred pub The Pipe and Glass Inn in Yorkshire and more recently The Nelson in Burton Joyce. His latest venture will be the long awaited Piccalilli which will soon open in the old Kushi-Ya space which has recently relocated to Low Pavement.

Dan has always wanted to be a chef ever since he could speak. He started out as a junior pastry chef at the age of 14 when he realised that a career in football wasn't for him. He fondly remembers how he used to take away left over boxes of profiteroles and eclairs at the end of the day. He grew up reading Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain which inspired him despite its unfiltered behind the scenes take on life in the kitchen, as well as Letters to A Young Chef by Daniel Boulud which is described as being a true guide for those who are young and looking to become a chef.

He now lives in Carlton Hill with his wife Helen of two years, who is currently doing a course in counselling and therapy as well as currently working in the community, helping people with drug and alcohol addiction. In his spare time he enjoys Jiu-Jitsu at Gracie Barra in Lenton, which helps him to take his mind off the day to day. He also has a Rottweiler called Nyx (named after a Greek Goddess) who he loves taking out for a walk in Sherwood Forest and where he draws inspiration for his own dishes through foraging for wild mushrooms, blackberries, apples and pears. If it grows together it goes together is a mantra that he's taken from The Bear which has permeated into his new venture.

The feel and look of Piccalilli will be a marked difference from its predecessor with a cosier and warmer feel, with feature exposed brick walls. The deadline to open is currently the 4th October, so no pressure to get it all turned around! The kind of people he see's enjoying the place will range in age brackets but will be great for couples, friends and families, he still wants to cater to the broader base with lunch deals as part of their menu.

Having first tried Dan's food back in 2019 when he had a pop up in the same space that he now owns it has been incredible to see the journey he has been on. He is a genuinely lovely guy who I had an absolute pleasure talking to and I cannot wait to see him in action when his doors finally open.

Q&A

What is your earliest cooking/food memory?

My earliest memory would have been my Mum's cooking. She always used to make a spicy shepherd's pie with a cheesy mash, which I've actually done a twist on when I was working at The Nelson by making a lamb shank rogan josh shepherd's pie which brings my childhood memories to life. Although interestingly (criminally in my opinion) my wife isn't a fan of mash potato!

What's your go to comfort food?

It has to be a roast dinner - 2015 we won the award for the best roast dinner when I worked at Larwood & Voce in West Bridgford so it may not come as a surprise! My perfect plate has to beef with loads of horseradish, lashings of gravy, roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, roast veg, broccoli and cauliflower cheese with leeks and parmesan on the side. Sunday's my brother and I would play rugby and then the whole family would get together over a Sunday Dinner at home in Gamston where I grew up. Our Dad will have been out on the bike and would bring a load of blackberries home in his helmet that he'd picked which Mum would then make into a hearty crumble which was very wholesome.

What's your favourite kitchen hack/tip?

Learn how to sharpen a knife, you could have the best knives in the world but if you don't know how to sharpen it then what' the point? You could have a £20 knife but if you know how to sharpen it then you'll be alright. I tend to get a lot of requests to sharpen other people's knives!

Have you had any kitchen fails?

Oh yeah loads and anyone that says they haven't is lying! When I was 17 I was getting a gallon container of tomato soup out of the corner of the fridge and someone hadn't clipped the lid down properly so I grabbed it and had to spend two and a half hours cleaning it up. That might be one of my worst ones. Have also had several injuries. Had a tray of chickens that had just come out of the oven where I managed to get all the fat from them drip down the side of my leg, my Mrs came in for lunch a few minutes after so I tried to hide it from her otherwise she'd have made me go to the hospital but it was 12pm on a Sunday, our busiest day of the week, so I just cracked on. Eventually I had to go to the doctors to have it dressed every day for a week. That was a good one!

Are there any role models/mentors who inspire you?

I guess business wise, my parents who have a shop in town called Cole’s Sewing Centre, they are actually retiring this year so I am now using their accountant, their window cleaner which is quite nice to have kept those links in with their business. Then probably Simon Carlin from Kushi-ya and John Molnar have been a big influence. Probably wouldn't be where I am today without those two! Both are hugely successful in what they do.

What are your key takeaways from place's you've previously worked?

How not to treat your staff. I have worked for places where I have been gaslit, experienced emotional manipulation so it is important for me to make my staff feel like they are a part of something and that they're not just a number, I don't want to dictate, I want them to have a voice.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I guess restaurant wise, places like St John's , I like the one in Spitalfields's where its a bit more chilled. The Marksman and The Sportsman are a couple of others that I've drawn inspiration from. Essentially very seasonal, British and use what's around, rather than just buying prime cuts. You can go out there and buy the best of the best but that's not sustainable.

As previously mentioned I'm a keen forager and therefore find inspiration in ingredients that can be sourced locally. There's venison deer in Sherwood Forest as well which is a potential dish I'm exploring. Visually, there's no specific method in the madness, I throw it on a plate, hope it works and then start putting some thought into it. My wife is the taste tester but she just tends to say it's amazing which isn't very critical and I'm left going, anything else? I probably need a bit more detail, is it too sweet, too salty, not balanced? She's probably a bit biased!

Why the name Piccalilli?

I guess it’s traditionally British but draws flavours from further afield, it's got the sour tangy thing to cut through fatty meat, plus I love to put it on everything!

If you could host a dinner party for any guest, who would they be and what would you cook for them?

I would want to cook for Anthony Bourdain - from what he's seen, what he's done, where he's travelled, he's lived the dream ultimately, until he tragically killed himself of course, so it would be an honour to cook for him. Then there's Bruce Springsteen who I am a huge fan of. Starter would be a steak tartare, main might be something random like a pizza or a shawarma, something unassuming maybe? Or actually how about a roast rib eye with roast potatoes, horseradish cream, watercress and pickled shallots. And probably a sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

What are your favourite ingredients and which belong in Room 101?

There's not much that I don't like. Maybe sheep's brains which tasted a bit like milk jelly when I tried it belong in Room 101. Maybe Bran Flakes too? I love venison and red wine with something pickled on the side - there's a damson ketchup venison dish that I'm exploring as part of the new menu.

What piece of advice would you give your younger self?

Don't wait so long to open a restaurant. In hindsight I'd have opened Piccalilli five years ago. The main thing holding me back was money and confidence, it is a huge commitment so it took time for me to pull the trigger.

What are you most proud of and what are the plans for the future?

Opening Piccalilli will be it once it opens! First year my plan is to stress a bit less and enjoy Sunday's off however having said that, I have thought about doing some events, potentially a Sunday Dinner followed by a whiskey tasting in partnership with a whiskey company called Fielden which is all about how wheat is grown rather than how long its aged for which is really interesting. Future plans wise, I'd love to open a Bar Called The Pickled Lilly and eventually I'd love to open a bakery because I love baking and making bread. Bread and Beer go hand in hand so maybe a Bakery / Pub!

What would be your death row meal?

Starters - Steak tartare, I just love it, raw egg yolk, loads of cornichons, capers, lea and perrins, plenty of salt with a nice slice of sourdough to go with it. I'd be pretty happy! Mains - A classic fish and chips. Dessert - A simple crème caramel. Drinks - Dry Riesling.

What are your favourite restaurants in Nottingham? And any that are overrated?

Kushi-Ya and Iberico, I feel a bit like I'm cheating saying that, but it tends to be where we go. Overrated places, there was one place we went to in Notts that we just weren't overly impressed with but I won't name any names. I felt like they were just putting far too much on the plate and someone needed to tell them to stop - pea shoots and micro herbs on everything - Just Stop!

Gallery